SkinWis
SkinWis Scientific

Skincare Ingredient

Sign in to save this ingredient

Save ingredients to your skin profile and we'll use them when you look up products — instantly flagging what's reactive, neutral, or works well for your skin.

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

In Skincare: Is Polyhydroxystearic Acid Safe? Comedogenic Rating & Side Effects

Safety (overall safety)
2/5 — Low risk

Safety Information

Generally considered low hazard and used as a dispersant and emollient in cosmetics; limited specific comedogenicity and irritation data. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated it as safe for use in cosmetics, noting minimal concerns for skin irritation or sensitization based on available data.

Quick Insights

At a glance

  • 01

    Polyhydroxystearic acid is frequently utilized to coat mineral sunscreen actives, promoting even distribution across the skin.

  • 02

    Beyond its use in sunscreens, polyhydroxystearic acid functions as an emulsion stabilizer, film-former, and texture-enhancing thickener in skincare formulations.

  • 03

    In makeup products, polyhydroxystearic acid assists with the cohesive distribution of pigments.

  • 04

    Derived from castor oil, polyhydroxystearic acid presents as a soft, pliable wax with a light tan to brown color.

Overview

Ingredient Profile

Polyhydroxystearic acid is a plant-derived or synthetic ingredient used in skincare and cosmetics to improve product texture and stability. It functions as a suspending agent, emulsion stabilizer, and film-former, often coating mineral sunscreen actives to promote even distribution and potentially reduce white cast. Additionally, it can enhance pigment dispersion in makeup and provide emollient properties to lotions and creams.
Classifications
Suspending/Dispersing Agent
Polymer

Role of Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Active Cosmetic Mechanisms

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Emulsifying Surfactant

Blends oil and water phases into stable mixtures

SCIENTIFIC ANALYSIS

// Evidence: Emulsifying surfactants enable creation of stable oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions by positioning at oil-water interface, reducing interfacial tension. HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) determines emulsion type: HLB 3-6 for W/O, HLB 8-18 for O/W emulsions. Examples include polysorbate 80, ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate. Mechanism involves forming interfacial film preventing droplet coalescence. Often used in combinations with co-emulsifiers (fatty alcohols) creating lamellar structures for enhanced stability.

Products

containing Polyhydroxystearic Acid

2395 formulations
Face Mineral SPF50
Face Mineral SPF50
Ultrasun · sunscreen
Protect And Prime SPF30
Protect And Prime SPF30
Emma Hardie · sunscreen
BB Cream with SPF 15
BB Cream with SPF 15
Burt's Bees · makeup

References

Scientific sources

[1]

Making Cosmetics, Accessed October 2021, ePublication

[2]

Cosmetics Business, April 2016, ePublication

Semantic Analysis

Similar Ingredients

Ingredients with similar chemical profiles and skincare properties.

Frequently Asked Questions

Polyhydroxystearic Acid — common questions

What is Polyhydroxystearic Acid in skincare?

12-Hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, homopolymer

What does Polyhydroxystearic Acid do? / Functions of Polyhydroxystearic Acid?

Common functions: SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING.

What is the comedogenic rating of Polyhydroxystearic Acid? / Is Polyhydroxystearic Acid comedogenic?

The comedogenic rating of Polyhydroxystearic Acid has not been established in our database.

Does it clog pores?
No Rating Available

Whether Polyhydroxystearic Acid clogs pores depends on the formulation and concentration.

Is Polyhydroxystearic Acid safe for skin?
2 2/5 — Low risk

Polyhydroxystearic Acid has a safety rating of 2 out of 5. A rating of 2 means it is generally considered safe for most skin types. Note: Generally considered low hazard and used as a dispersant and emollient in cosmetics; limited specific comedogenicity and irritation data. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluate

Is Polyhydroxystearic Acid good for sensitive skin?

Polyhydroxystearic Acid tolerance on sensitive skin varies by individual.

What are the side effects of Polyhydroxystearic Acid in skincare?

Known considerations: Generally considered low hazard and used as a dispersant and emollient in cosmetics; limited specific comedogenicity and irritation data. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated it as safe for use in cosmetics, noting minimal concerns for skin irritation or sensitization based on available data.

)