Acne & Breakouts
Comedonal and inflammatory acne driven by excess sebum, blocked follicles, and C. acnes proliferation.
About
What is Acne & Breakouts?
Acne forms when hair follicles become blocked with a combination of sebum and dead skin cells. Depending on whether the blockage is exposed to air or sealed beneath the surface, this produces blackheads, whiteheads, or inflammatory lesions such as papules and pustules. Most people experience some form of acne in their lifetime, and it is not limited to teenage skin. Adult acne, particularly hormonal acne along the jawline and chin, is increasingly common.
Common Causes
- Excess sebum production driven by androgens
- Hormonal fluctuations (puberty, menstrual cycle, pregnancy)
- Comedogenic or pore-blocking ingredients in skincare or makeup
- C. acnes bacterial overgrowth triggering inflammation
- High-glycaemic diet and chronic stress
- Slow cell turnover causing dead cells to accumulate inside pores
What To Look For
Key Ingredients
Salicylic Acid
Oil-soluble BHA that penetrates pores to dissolve congestion and reduce comedones
Benzoyl Peroxide
Kills C. acnes bacteria directly and reduces the risk of antibiotic resistance
Niacinamide
Reduces sebum output and calms post-acne redness
Azelaic Acid
Antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, while also fading post-acne pigmentation
Adapalene
Retinoid that normalises cell turnover and prevents pore blockages forming
How to Treat
Routine & Care
An effective acne routine targets multiple causes at once: clearing pore congestion, reducing bacterial activity, and calming inflammation. Consistency matters more than intensity. Over-treating acne with too many actives damages the barrier and tends to worsen breakouts.
Steps
- 1 Cleanse with a gentle, non-stripping cleanser twice daily. A BHA cleanser (salicylic acid) can be used in the morning or evening for additional congestion control.
- 2 Apply a BHA toner or serum after cleansing to clear pore congestion. Wait 5 to 10 minutes before layering.
- 3 Use a niacinamide serum across the full face to regulate sebum production and calm redness.
- 4 Apply benzoyl peroxide or azelaic acid as a targeted spot treatment directly to active lesions.
- 5 Finish with a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturiser to maintain the barrier without adding congestion.
- 6 Apply broad-spectrum SPF30 or higher every morning without fail.
Key Actives to Look For
- Salicylic Acid
- Benzoyl Peroxide
- Niacinamide
- Azelaic Acid
- Adapalene
What to Avoid
- Occlusive, comedogenic oils such as coconut oil
- Alcohol-heavy toners that strip the skin and trigger rebound oil
- Over-exfoliating with multiple leave-on acids at the same time
Related Concerns
Pairings & Interactions
Often Occurs With
oil-control
Sebum reduction and pore-clearing work together; combining niacinamide with a BHA addresses both the cause and the congestion
brightening
Azelaic acid and niacinamide double as brightening actives, making them practical choices for acne-prone skin prone to PIH
hydrating
Maintaining a healthy moisture barrier reduces the reactive sebum overproduction that follows over-drying treatments
May Worsen
retinoids
Benzoyl peroxide can oxidise and inactivate tretinoin; avoid applying in the same step. Use on alternating evenings instead
aha
Avoid stacking AHAs with multiple leave-on acne actives at once. Over-treating disrupts the barrier and worsens breakouts
Got Questions?
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between comedonal and inflammatory acne?
Comedonal acne consists of blocked pores without significant redness or swelling, appearing as blackheads (open comedones) and whiteheads (closed comedones). Inflammatory acne involves papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts, where C. acnes bacteria trigger an immune response. Most people have a mix of both types, which is why a multi-active approach tends to be more effective than relying on a single ingredient.
How do I know if my skin is purging or reacting badly to a product?
Purging is a temporary increase in breakouts triggered by actives that accelerate cell turnover, such as retinoids or exfoliants. It appears in areas where you would normally break out and resolves within 4 to 6 weeks of consistent use. A reaction to a product that does not suit your skin looks different: breakouts appear in new areas, do not follow your usual pattern, and do not clear up as use continues.
Can I use salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide in the same routine?
Yes, but not layered directly on top of each other. They address different parts of the acne cycle and complement each other well when used in separate steps. A typical approach is to use a salicylic acid toner after cleansing, followed by moisturiser, and apply benzoyl peroxide as a spot treatment to active lesions on top.
Does diet have a real impact on acne?
The evidence suggests it does for some people. High-glycaemic foods (refined sugar, white bread, processed carbohydrates) have been most consistently linked to increased breakouts because they spike insulin levels, which in turn stimulates androgen activity and sebum production. Dairy is implicated for some individuals, particularly skimmed milk. That said, dietary triggers are highly individual and not universal.
Is it possible to have oily but dehydrated acne-prone skin?
Yes, and it is common. Oily skin produces excess sebum but can still lack water in the stratum corneum, particularly if harsh actives have disrupted the barrier. Using very light humectants such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin alongside acne actives, rather than skipping moisturiser entirely, actually helps regulate sebum production over time.
Products
Recommended for Acne & Breakouts
Jo Malone London
Velvet Rose & Oud Shower Cream
111SKIN
Y Lift Neck and Decolletage Serum
Polaar
Eternal Snow Eye Contour Cream
3LAB
Anti Aging Mask
111SKIN
Celestial Black Diamond Lifting And Firming Neck Mask
Baxter of California
Skin Concentrate BHA
SVR
Sun Secure + Blur Soft Focus and Anti Shine Sunscreen for Face SPF 50
Sepai
Flawless Dark Spots Serum
3LAB
Aqua BB Protect
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