Hyperpigmentation
Post-inflammatory marks, melasma, UV-induced dark spots, and persistent uneven skin tone.
About
What is Hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation forms when melanocytes overproduce melanin in localised areas, leaving behind patches or spots that are darker than the surrounding skin. The three most common types are post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which follows acne or skin injury; melasma, a hormonally driven condition that typically affects the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip; and solar lentigines (sun spots), which develop from cumulative UV exposure. Different types respond to treatment at different rates, with melasma being the most stubborn.
Common Causes
- UV exposure without adequate sun protection
- Post-inflammatory response following acne, burns, or skin trauma
- Hormonal changes, particularly oestrogen fluctuations in pregnancy or from oral contraceptives
- Cumulative sun damage and ageing
- Picking or squeezing blemishes, which worsens PIH
What To Look For
Key Ingredients
Niacinamide
Blocks the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to skin cells
Alpha Arbutin
A stable tyrosinase inhibitor that reduces pigment production effectively and gently
Tranexamic Acid
Disrupts UV-triggered signalling between melanocytes and keratinocytes, particularly effective for melasma
Azelaic Acid
Selectively targets overactive melanocytes with anti-inflammatory benefits alongside depigmentation
Kojic Acid
A naturally derived melanin inhibitor from fermented fungi
Vitamin C
Inhibits tyrosinase and brightens the overall complexion
How to Treat
Routine & Care
Brightening routines require patience and consistency. Combining actives that target different stages of the melanin pathway gives faster results than using a single ingredient. Without daily SPF, any progress made by brightening actives is reversed by ongoing UV exposure.
Steps
- 1 Cleanse morning and evening with a gentle, non-irritating cleanser.
- 2 Apply a brightening serum (niacinamide, alpha arbutin, or tranexamic acid) after cleansing. These can be layered or alternated across AM and PM.
- 3 Use vitamin C in the morning for additional antioxidant protection and melanin inhibition.
- 4 Incorporate AHA exfoliation (glycolic or lactic acid) 2 to 3 evenings per week to accelerate cell turnover and surface shedding.
- 5 On alternate evenings, use a retinoid to support deeper cell renewal.
- 6 Apply SPF50 every morning as the final step. This is non-negotiable.
Key Actives to Look For
- Alpha Arbutin
- Tranexamic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Vitamin C
- Azelaic Acid
What to Avoid
- UV exposure without SPF, which undoes progress faster than actives can produce it
- Harsh physical exfoliants that cause micro-tears and worsen PIH
- Fragrance and known irritants that trigger inflammation and subsequent PIH in reactive skin
Related Concerns
Pairings & Interactions
Often Occurs With
antioxidants
Vitamin C inhibits melanin synthesis and pairs naturally with other brightening actives for a multi-pathway approach
aha
AHA exfoliation accelerates surface shedding of pigmented cells, amplifying the effect of brightening serums beneath
retinoids
Retinoids regulate melanin production and improve penetration of brightening actives by increasing cell turnover
spf-mineral
Without daily SPF, UV triggers new melanin production that outpaces the fading effect of any brightening active
May Worsen
acne
Benzoyl peroxide can oxidise vitamin C; avoid layering them in the same step
Got Questions?
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between PIH and melasma?
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) results from inflammation or trauma to the skin, such as acne, a burn, or a cut. It tends to respond well to topical actives over time. Melasma is a hormonally driven condition causing symmetrical darker patches, most commonly on the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip. It is more resistant to treatment, often recurs, and requires long-term management rather than a one-off course of treatment.
How long will it take to see results from brightening ingredients?
Visible fading of PIH typically takes 8 to 12 weeks of consistent use. Melasma often takes longer, and results may be partial rather than complete. Sun spots from UV damage can respond within 8 to 16 weeks depending on depth. The biggest factor affecting speed of improvement is daily SPF use. Without it, new pigmentation forms continuously and offsets progress.
Do brightening ingredients work on all skin tones?
Yes, though darker skin tones are more prone to PIH and therefore often benefit most from a consistent brightening routine. The same ingredients work across all skin tones, but gentler options (niacinamide, alpha arbutin, tranexamic acid) carry a lower risk of causing reactive pigmentation in darker skin. Irritating concentrations of kojic acid or aggressive exfoliation should be approached more carefully in melanin-rich skin.
Can I use brightening actives during pregnancy?
Several commonly used brightening ingredients are considered low risk in pregnancy, including niacinamide, azelaic acid, and vitamin C. Kojic acid, hydroquinone, and high-concentration exfoliants are typically avoided as a precaution. Melasma that develops in pregnancy ('the mask of pregnancy') sometimes fades naturally postpartum, though it can persist. Always check with a GP or dermatologist before continuing active skincare during pregnancy.
Is SPF really that important for fading dark spots?
Yes. UV exposure is the primary trigger for melanin overproduction. Without daily SPF, the melanocytes responsible for the dark spots continue to be stimulated by daylight, producing new pigment faster than brightening actives can fade existing marks. SPF is the foundation that makes a brightening routine work, not an optional addition.
Products
Recommended for Hyperpigmentation
Circ-Cell Skincare
Circcell Mandarin Cleansing Milk
Payot
Nutricia Long Lasting Nourishing and Repairing Cream
Coola
Mineral Silk Creme SPF 30
Payot
Hydra 24 Corps Hydrating Firming Treatment
Circ-Cell Skincare
Circ Cell Daily Hydration Broad Spectrum Oil Free Moisturizer SPF 43
Fillerina
Long Lasting Durable Effect Day Cream Grade 5
Fillerina
Long Lasting Durable Night Cream Grade 5
ReFa
Collagen Enrich Jelly
Payot
Hydrating Anti Blemish Cream
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