Vitamin A Derivatives

Retinoids

Regulate cell turnover and stimulate collagen, making them the most evidence-backed anti-ageing actives available

Ingredients

Mechanism of Action

How It Works

Retinoids bind to retinoic acid receptors in the skin, triggering a cascade of changes: accelerated epidermal cell turnover, increased collagen synthesis, reduced melanin production, and normalised keratinisation inside pores. Retinol converts to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid (the active form) within the skin. Each conversion step reduces potency but also reduces the likelihood of irritation. Prescription tretinoin is already retinoic acid, making it the most potent and most irritating option. Retinal sits between retinol and tretinoin in terms of strength and speed.

Best For

Signs of ageing and fine lines
Acne and congestion
Hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone
Rough texture and enlarged pores

Watch Out For

Dryness, peeling, and purging are common in the first 4 to 8 weeks
Contraindicated during pregnancy
Daily SPF is essential; retinoids significantly increase photosensitivity
Start at 1 to 2 applications per week and build frequency slowly
Avoid combining with AHAs or BHAs on the same night until the skin has fully acclimatised

What to Look For

Key Ingredients

Tap an ingredient to learn more

Retinol

The most widely available over-the-counter retinoid, converting to retinoic acid within the skin

Retinal

One conversion step from retinoic acid, making it more potent than retinol with faster visible results

Retinyl Palmitate

The mildest ester form of vitamin A, suited to beginners and sensitive skin

Adapalene

A third-generation retinoid available over the counter, highly effective for acne with less irritation than tretinoin

Tretinoin

Prescription retinoic acid with the strongest evidence base and the most potent results

How to Use

Routine & Layering

Best used PM

Apply retinoids at night only, after cleansing and any hydrating toner or essence. Use a small amount (a pea-sized quantity for the whole face) and allow it to absorb before layering a moisturiser on top. The sandwich method (moisturiser before and after the retinoid) can reduce irritation during the first few weeks.

AM Routine

Never apply retinoids in the morning. In the AM, use an antioxidant serum and a broad-spectrum SPF30 or higher to protect the skin that retinoids are actively renewing.

PM Routine

Start with one or two evenings per week, increasing to three, then four, then nightly over a period of months as tolerance builds. Patience and consistency matter more than frequency.

Layering Order

1 Cleanser
2 Hydrating toner or essence (optional buffer layer)
3 Retinoid
4 Wait 10 to 20 minutes
5 Moisturiser

Compatibility

Pairings & Interactions

Pairs Well With

Hydrating & Barrier Support

Hydrating layers before and after retinoids reduce dryness and peeling during the adjustment period

Peptides & Signal Molecules

Peptides can be used on alternate nights or layered carefully with retinoids to support collagen without adding irritation

Brightening & Depigmentation

Retinoids accelerate cell turnover which amplifies the effect of brightening actives for pigmentation

Avoid Combining With

AHA Exfoliants

Combining AHAs and retinoids on the same evening risks significant irritation; use on alternating nights

BHA Exfoliants

Same principle as AHAs; alternate rather than combine until the skin is fully acclimatised to both

Antioxidants

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) at low pH can destabilise retinoids; use vitamin C in the morning and retinoids at night

Got Questions?

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between retinol and tretinoin?

Tretinoin is retinoic acid, the form skin can use directly, making it immediately active and significantly stronger than retinol. Retinol must first be converted to retinoic acid by the skin, which reduces potency but also reduces side effects. Tretinoin requires a prescription; retinol is available over the counter.

What is retinoid uglies and is it normal?

Retinoid uglies refer to the period of purging, dryness, peeling, and temporary worsening of skin that often occurs in the first 4 to 8 weeks of use. This is a normal part of the skin's adjustment process. Going slowly with frequency and using supportive hydrating and barrier-repair products alongside the retinoid helps most people through it.

Can I use retinoids if I have sensitive skin?

Yes, but the approach matters. Start with retinyl palmitate or a 0.025% retinol formula and use it only once a week initially. Buffer it with moisturiser before and after application. Retinal is increasingly popular for sensitive skin that wants more potency than retinol without progressing to prescription tretinoin.

How long does it take for retinoids to work?

Improvements in acne often appear within 6 to 12 weeks. Visible anti-ageing effects, including improvements in fine lines and skin texture, typically require 3 to 6 months of consistent use. Significant collagen remodelling can continue for up to a year.

Are retinoids safe for darker skin tones?

Retinoids are safe and effective for all skin tones, but the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) from irritation is higher in darker skin. This makes a slow, careful introduction even more important. Keeping the skin well hydrated, avoiding over-exfoliating, and using daily SPF all reduce this risk.

Curated List