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Skincare Ingredient

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Polysorbate 20

In Skincare: Is Polysorbate 20 Safe? Comedogenic Rating & Side Effects

Comedogenicity (pore clogging)
1/5 — Very low risk
Safety (overall safety)
2/5 — Low risk
Irritancy (skin irritation)
2/5 — Low risk

Safety Information

Nonionic surfactant and solubilizer considered safe by CIR; generally non-comedogenic. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated Polysorbate 20 and concluded it is safe for use in cosmetics at current concentrations. Limited safety data from EWG supports its general safety profile, though it may cause mild irritation in sensitive individuals.

Quick Insights

At a glance

  • 01

    Polysorbate 20 functions as a mild cleansing agent in cosmetic formulations.

  • 02

    Derived from lauric acid, the primary fatty acid found in coconuts, polysorbate 20 is an emulsifier.

  • 03

    Polysorbate 20 is also approved as a food additive.

  • 04

    Polysorbate 20 can contribute to the stability of oral medications.

Overview

Ingredient Profile

Polysorbate 20 is an emulsifier commonly used in skincare to help blend oil and water-based ingredients, creating stable formulations. Derived from sorbitol and fatty acids, it also exhibits mild surfactant properties that can contribute to cleansing. Widely considered safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel, polysorbate 20 is found in various leave-on and rinse-off products, typically at concentrations up to 4% as used in spray deodorants.
Classifications
Cleansing Agent
Emulsifier

Data & Research

Scientific Facts

Polysorbates are surfactants – molecules that reduce surface tension between liquids, allowing them to mix. They function as emulsifiers, specifically dispersing oil in water systems rather than creating a water-in-oil emulsion.

Common Uses

Formulation in Polysorbate 20

Polysorbates improve the solubility of ingredients that would not normally dissolve in a given solvent. They also aid in emulsion formation by reducing surface tension, allowing oil and water-based ingredients to combine effectively.

Role of Polysorbate 20

Active Cosmetic Mechanisms

SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

Cleansing Surfactant

Removes dirt and oil through surfactant action

SCIENTIFIC ANALYSIS

// Evidence: Cleansing surfactants specifically formulated for removing sebum, dirt, and impurities. Primarily anionic (sodium laureth sulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate) and amphoteric surfactants (betaines). Mechanism involves reducing surface tension enabling water to wet oily surfaces, solubilizing lipophilic materials in micelles, and emulsifying oils for rinse-off. Cleansing efficacy balanced with mildness by surfactant selection, concentration, and pH optimization. Must avoid excessive lipid removal that compromises barrier function.

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Emulsifying Surfactant

Blends oil and water phases into stable mixtures

SCIENTIFIC ANALYSIS

// Evidence: Emulsifying surfactants enable creation of stable oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions by positioning at oil-water interface, reducing interfacial tension. HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) determines emulsion type: HLB 3-6 for W/O, HLB 8-18 for O/W emulsions. Examples include polysorbate 80, ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate. Mechanism involves forming interfacial film preventing droplet coalescence. Often used in combinations with co-emulsifiers (fatty alcohols) creating lamellar structures for enhanced stability.

Products

containing Polysorbate 20

8528 formulations
Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
Paula's Choice · exfoliators
UV Shield Aqua Fresh Essence SPF 50 PA++++
UV Shield Aqua Fresh Essence SPF 50 PA++++
Wardah · sunscreen
Simply Hand Wash Lemon Sugar
Simply Hand Wash Lemon Sugar
Raw Sugar · body-skincare

References

Scientific sources

[1]

Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, January 2021, epublication

[2]

Children, December 2019, epublication

[3]

Cosmetic Ingredient Review, July 2015, pages 1-48

[4]

Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces, April 2013, Volume 104, pages 200-206

[5]

Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research, July 2011, Volume 10, Issue 3, pages 281-288

Semantic Analysis

Similar Ingredients

Ingredients with similar chemical profiles and skincare properties.

Frequently Asked Questions

Polysorbate 20 — common questions

What is Polysorbate 20 in skincare?

Polysorbates 20, 21, 40, 60, 61, 65, 80, and 81 are a group of nonionic surfactants. They are created by reacting sorbitol with ethylene oxide, followed by a reaction with fatty acids derived from vegetable oils and fats (such as lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and oleic acid). The number in the Polysorbate name indicates the average number of ethylene oxide molecules added per mole of sorbitol.

What does Polysorbate 20 do? / Functions of Polysorbate 20?

Common functions: SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING.

What is the comedogenic rating of Polysorbate 20? / Is Polysorbate 20 comedogenic?
1 1/5 — Very low risk

Polysorbate 20 has a comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5. A rating of 1 means it is unlikely to clog pores.

Does it clog pores?
Unlikely to Clog Pores

Polysorbate 20 is unlikely to clog pores (rating 1/5).

Is Polysorbate 20 safe for skin?
2 2/5 — Low risk

Polysorbate 20 has a safety rating of 2 out of 5. A rating of 2 means it is generally considered safe for most skin types. Note: Nonionic surfactant and solubilizer considered safe by CIR; generally non-comedogenic. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated Polysorbate 20 and concluded it is safe for use i

Is Polysorbate 20 good for sensitive skin?
2 2/5 — Low risk

Polysorbate 20 has an irritancy rating of 2 out of 5. A rating of 2 means it is generally well-tolerated.

What are the side effects of Polysorbate 20 in skincare?

Known considerations: Nonionic surfactant and solubilizer considered safe by CIR; generally non-comedogenic. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated Polysorbate 20 and concluded it is safe for use in cosmetics at current concentrations. Limited safety data from EWG supports its general safety profile, though it may cause mild irritation in sensitive individuals.

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