Skincare Ingredient
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Polysorbate 20
In Skincare: Is Polysorbate 20 Safe? Comedogenic Rating & Side Effects
Safety Information
Quick Insights
At a glance
- 01
Polysorbate 20 functions as a mild cleansing agent in cosmetic formulations.
- 02
Derived from lauric acid, the primary fatty acid found in coconuts, polysorbate 20 is an emulsifier.
- 03
Polysorbate 20 is also approved as a food additive.
- 04
Polysorbate 20 can contribute to the stability of oral medications.
Overview
Ingredient Profile
Data & Research
Scientific Facts
Common Uses
Formulation in Polysorbate 20
Role of Polysorbate 20
Active Cosmetic Mechanisms
SURFACTANT - CLEANSING
Cleansing SurfactantRemoves dirt and oil through surfactant action
SCIENTIFIC ANALYSIS
// Evidence: Cleansing surfactants specifically formulated for removing sebum, dirt, and impurities. Primarily anionic (sodium laureth sulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate) and amphoteric surfactants (betaines). Mechanism involves reducing surface tension enabling water to wet oily surfaces, solubilizing lipophilic materials in micelles, and emulsifying oils for rinse-off. Cleansing efficacy balanced with mildness by surfactant selection, concentration, and pH optimization. Must avoid excessive lipid removal that compromises barrier function.
SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING
Emulsifying SurfactantBlends oil and water phases into stable mixtures
SCIENTIFIC ANALYSIS
// Evidence: Emulsifying surfactants enable creation of stable oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions by positioning at oil-water interface, reducing interfacial tension. HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) determines emulsion type: HLB 3-6 for W/O, HLB 8-18 for O/W emulsions. Examples include polysorbate 80, ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate. Mechanism involves forming interfacial film preventing droplet coalescence. Often used in combinations with co-emulsifiers (fatty alcohols) creating lamellar structures for enhanced stability.
Products
containing Polysorbate 20
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References
Scientific sources
Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, January 2021, epublication
Children, December 2019, epublication
Cosmetic Ingredient Review, July 2015, pages 1-48
Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces, April 2013, Volume 104, pages 200-206
Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research, July 2011, Volume 10, Issue 3, pages 281-288
Similar Ingredients
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Frequently Asked Questions
Polysorbate 20 — common questions
What is Polysorbate 20 in skincare?
Polysorbates 20, 21, 40, 60, 61, 65, 80, and 81 are a group of nonionic surfactants. They are created by reacting sorbitol with ethylene oxide, followed by a reaction with fatty acids derived from vegetable oils and fats (such as lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and oleic acid). The number in the Polysorbate name indicates the average number of ethylene oxide molecules added per mole of sorbitol.
What does Polysorbate 20 do? / Functions of Polysorbate 20?
Common functions: SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING.
What is the comedogenic rating of Polysorbate 20? / Is Polysorbate 20 comedogenic?
Polysorbate 20 has a comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5. A rating of 1 means it is unlikely to clog pores.
Does it clog pores?
Polysorbate 20 is unlikely to clog pores (rating 1/5).
Is Polysorbate 20 safe for skin?
Polysorbate 20 has a safety rating of 2 out of 5. A rating of 2 means it is generally considered safe for most skin types. Note: Nonionic surfactant and solubilizer considered safe by CIR; generally non-comedogenic. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated Polysorbate 20 and concluded it is safe for use i
Is Polysorbate 20 good for sensitive skin?
Polysorbate 20 has an irritancy rating of 2 out of 5. A rating of 2 means it is generally well-tolerated.
What are the side effects of Polysorbate 20 in skincare?
Known considerations: Nonionic surfactant and solubilizer considered safe by CIR; generally non-comedogenic. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated Polysorbate 20 and concluded it is safe for use in cosmetics at current concentrations. Limited safety data from EWG supports its general safety profile, though it may cause mild irritation in sensitive individuals.