SkinWis
SkinWis Scientific

Skincare Ingredient

Sign in to save this ingredient

Save ingredients to your skin profile and we'll use them when you look up products — instantly flagging what's reactive, neutral, or works well for your skin.

Polysorbate 80

In Skincare: Is Polysorbate 80 Safe? Comedogenic Rating & Side Effects

Comedogenicity (pore clogging)
1/5 — Very low risk
Safety (overall safety)
2/5 — Low risk
Irritancy (skin irritation)
2/5 — Low risk

Safety Information

May cause mild irritation or rare allergy in sensitive skin, especially at higher concentrations or on compromised skin. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated Polysorbate 80 and concluded it is safe for use in cosmetics as a surfactant and solubilizer.

Quick Insights

At a glance

  • 01

    Polysorbate 80 is a surfactant derived from fatty acids, primarily oleic acid.

  • 02

    In skincare formulations, polysorbate 80 functions as an emulsifier or solubilizer.

  • 03

    Polysorbate 80 can improve the aesthetic feel of cosmetic products.

  • 04

    This ingredient may enhance the absorption of other active ingredients into the skin.

  • 05

    Polysorbate 80 is considered safe for use in cosmetics.

Overview

Ingredient Profile

Polysorbate 80 is an emulsifier and solubilizer commonly used in skincare to help blend oil and water-based ingredients, resulting in a more desirable texture. It functions as a surfactant, assisting with cleansing and potentially enhancing the absorption of other beneficial ingredients like antioxidants. Safety assessments indicate polysorbate 80 is non-irritating and considered safe for use in cosmetic formulations at typical concentrations, with the FDA also recognizing it as a safe food additive.
Classifications
Cleansing Agent
Emulsifier

Data & Research

Scientific Facts

Polysorbates are surfactants – molecules that reduce surface tension between liquids – produced through a chemical process. Specifically, they are polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters. This means they are formed by reacting sorbitol with ethylene oxide, and subsequently combining the result with fatty acids sourced from plant-based oils and fats. Their primary function is to disperse oil in water, rather than creating a water-in-oil emulsion.

Common Uses

Formulation in Polysorbate 80

Polysorbates improve the solubility of ingredients that would not normally dissolve in a given solvent. They also aid in emulsion formation by reducing surface tension, allowing oil and water to combine effectively.

Role of Polysorbate 80

Active Cosmetic Mechanisms

DENATURANT

Alcohol Treatment Agent

Makes alcohol undrinkable in cosmetic products

SCIENTIFIC ANALYSIS

// Evidence: Denaturants are added to ethanol to render it unfit for consumption while maintaining cosmetic functionality. Common denaturants include denatonium benzoate (extremely bitter), diethyl phthalate, and tert-butyl alcohol. This allows manufacturers to use tax-free specially denatured alcohol. Denaturants must meet specific regulatory formulations with precise ratios.

SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

Cleansing Surfactant

Removes dirt and oil through surfactant action

SCIENTIFIC ANALYSIS

// Evidence: Cleansing surfactants specifically formulated for removing sebum, dirt, and impurities. Primarily anionic (sodium laureth sulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate) and amphoteric surfactants (betaines). Mechanism involves reducing surface tension enabling water to wet oily surfaces, solubilizing lipophilic materials in micelles, and emulsifying oils for rinse-off. Cleansing efficacy balanced with mildness by surfactant selection, concentration, and pH optimization. Must avoid excessive lipid removal that compromises barrier function.

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Emulsifying Surfactant

Blends oil and water phases into stable mixtures

SCIENTIFIC ANALYSIS

// Evidence: Emulsifying surfactants enable creation of stable oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions by positioning at oil-water interface, reducing interfacial tension. HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) determines emulsion type: HLB 3-6 for W/O, HLB 8-18 for O/W emulsions. Examples include polysorbate 80, ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate. Mechanism involves forming interfacial film preventing droplet coalescence. Often used in combinations with co-emulsifiers (fatty alcohols) creating lamellar structures for enhanced stability.

Products

containing Polysorbate 80

3366 formulations
Liftactiv Supreme
Liftactiv Supreme
Vichy · moisturizer
Sekkisei Clear Wellness UV Sunscreen Essence Gel SPF 50+ PA++++
Sekkisei Clear Wellness UV Sunscreen Essence Gel SPF 50+ PA++++
Kose Cosmeport · sunscreen
Sublime Bronze Self-Tanning Lotion
Sublime Bronze Self-Tanning Lotion
L'Oreal · body-skincare
Ultra Shield Lotion SPF 50
Ultra Shield Lotion SPF 50
Epionce · sunscreen
Peptight™ Tightening Neck Serum Roller
Peptight™ Tightening Neck Serum Roller
StriVectin · serums-treatment
Skin Veil Luminizing Base with SPF50
Skin Veil Luminizing Base with SPF50
Laneige · makeup
Tabi no Yado Clear - Assorted Series Pack (Kusatsu, Noboribetsu, Hakone, & Beppu)
Tabi no Yado Clear - Assorted Series Pack (Kusatsu, Noboribetsu, Hakone, & Beppu)
Kracie · body-skincare
Hydra Fresh Tinted Moisturiser SPF50 Broad Spectrum
Hydra Fresh Tinted Moisturiser SPF50 Broad Spectrum
Charms Cosmetic Skincare · moisturizer
Bright Crystal Body Lotion
Bright Crystal Body Lotion
Versace · body-skincare
Ultra Light Face Cleansing Oil & Makeup Remover
Ultra Light Face Cleansing Oil & Makeup Remover
Neutrogena · makeup
See all products with Polysorbate 80

References

Scientific sources

[1]

U.S. Food & Drug Administration, Code of Federal Regulations, April 2020, ePublication

[2]
accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.840
[3]

Cosmetic Ingredient Review, July 2015, pages 1-48

[4]
cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/PSorba_062015_FR_0.pdf
[5]

Journal of Chromatographic Science, August 2012, pages 598–607

[6]
academic.oup.com/chromsci/article/50/7/598/298661?login=true
[7]

Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research, July 2011, pages 281-288

[8]
researchgate.net/publication/260210904_Penetration_Enhancing_Effect_of_Polysorbate_20_and_80_on_the_In_Vitro_Percutaneous_Absorption_of_LAscorbic_Acid
Semantic Analysis

Similar Ingredients

Ingredients with similar chemical profiles and skincare properties.

Frequently Asked Questions

Polysorbate 80 — common questions

What is Polysorbate 80 in skincare?

Polysorbates 80, 20, and other related ingredients (Polysorbate 60, 61, 65, 81, and 85) are nonionic surfactants. They are created by reacting sorbitol with ethylene oxide, followed by a reaction with fatty acids derived from vegetable oils and fats like lauric, palmitic, stearic, and oleic acid. The number in the Polysorbate name indicates the average number of ethylene oxide molecules added per mole of sorbitol.

What does Polysorbate 80 do? / Functions of Polysorbate 80?

Common functions: DENATURANT, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING.

What is the comedogenic rating of Polysorbate 80? / Is Polysorbate 80 comedogenic?
1 1/5 — Very low risk

Polysorbate 80 has a comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5. A rating of 1 means it is unlikely to clog pores.

Does it clog pores?
Unlikely to Clog Pores

Polysorbate 80 is unlikely to clog pores (rating 1/5).

Is Polysorbate 80 safe for skin?
2 2/5 — Low risk

Polysorbate 80 has a safety rating of 2 out of 5. A rating of 2 means it is generally considered safe for most skin types. Note: May cause mild irritation or rare allergy in sensitive skin, especially at higher concentrations or on compromised skin. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated Polysorbate 80

Is Polysorbate 80 good for sensitive skin?
2 2/5 — Low risk

Polysorbate 80 has an irritancy rating of 2 out of 5. A rating of 2 means it is generally well-tolerated.

What are the side effects of Polysorbate 80 in skincare?

Known considerations: May cause mild irritation or rare allergy in sensitive skin, especially at higher concentrations or on compromised skin. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated Polysorbate 80 and concluded it is safe for use in cosmetics as a surfactant and solubilizer.

)