Comedonal

Blackheads & Congestion

Non-inflammatory comedones, oxidised sebum plugs, and clogged follicles that give skin a rough or congested appearance.

About

What is Blackheads & Congestion?

Blackheads form when a pore becomes blocked with a combination of sebum and dead skin cells. Unlike whiteheads, blackheads are open at the surface, exposing the plug to air. The dark colour is not dirt; it is oxidised melanin in the sebum reacting to oxygen. Congestion describes a more widespread pattern of blocked pores that may not be visibly dark but create a rough, uneven skin texture. Both are most common in oily skin and on the nose, chin, and forehead, but can affect all skin types.

Common Causes

Excess sebum production filling and blocking follicular openings
Incomplete removal of sunscreen, makeup, and oil-based products
Heavy or comedogenic skincare formulas that sit inside pores
Hormonal fluctuations that increase androgen-driven sebum output
Slow cell turnover allowing dead cells to accumulate inside follicles

What To Look For

Key Ingredients

Tap an ingredient to learn more

Salicylic Acid

An oil-soluble exfoliant that penetrates through sebum to exfoliate inside pores

Niacinamide

Reduces sebum production to address the root cause of congestion

Retinol

Normalises cell turnover inside follicles to prevent clogging from recurring

Zinc PCA

Controls androgen-driven oil production at the source

Glycolic Acid

Resurfaces and clears dead cells that contribute to surface congestion

How to Treat

Routine & Care

Clearing blackheads and congestion requires both dissolving existing blockages and reducing the sebum production that causes them. Patience is essential; meaningful reduction in congestion typically takes 6 to 8 weeks of consistent BHA use.

Steps

1 Double cleanse in the evening if wearing SPF or makeup. An oil-based first cleanse dissolves sunscreen and surface oil before a gel or foam second cleanse.
2 Apply a salicylic acid toner or serum after cleansing, 3 to 5 evenings per week. This is the most direct treatment for existing congestion.
3 Use a niacinamide serum daily (AM and PM) to reduce sebum production over time.
4 Introduce a retinoid 1 to 2 evenings per week (not on the same evening as a BHA initially) to normalise follicular cell turnover.
5 Use a clay mask (kaolin or bentonite) once a week as an additional oil-absorption step.
6 Apply SPF every morning; sun exposure worsens sebum oxidation and skin ageing around pores.

Key Actives to Look For

Salicylic Acid
Niacinamide
Retinol
Zinc PCA
Glycolic Acid

What to Avoid

Pore strips, which remove only the superficial tip of a blackhead without addressing the cause
Squeezing or manually extracting blackheads at home, which inflames the follicle and can cause scarring
Comedogenic ingredients such as coconut oil, cocoa butter, and algae-derived thickeners in leave-on products

Related Concerns

Pairings & Interactions

Often Occurs With

bha

BHA is the primary treatment for congested pores; niacinamide and zinc PCA reduce the sebum that refills them

oil-control

Addressing sebum production alongside pore exfoliation produces better long-term results than exfoliation alone

retinoids

Retinoids normalise follicular keratinisation, preventing the dead-cell accumulation that creates blackheads from within

May Worsen

hydrating

Not an incompatibility, but choose non-comedogenic, lightweight formulas. Heavy occlusives can refill pores that exfoliants have just cleared

Got Questions?

Frequently Asked Questions

Why do blackheads keep coming back after I clear them?

Because the underlying causes (sebum production and slow follicular cell turnover) have not been addressed. Removing a blackhead mechanically or with an acid empties the pore temporarily, but the follicle refills within days to weeks unless sebum output is reduced and cell turnover normalised. Consistent use of BHA, niacinamide, and retinoid produces lasting improvement rather than repeated clearing.

Are pore strips effective for blackheads?

Pore strips physically adhere to the oxidised surface of a blackhead and pull it out on removal. They produce a satisfying immediate result but address only the very tip of the plug without clearing the follicle or reducing sebum. Used occasionally they are harmless; used frequently they can irritate and sensitise the skin. A consistent BHA routine is more effective in the long term.

Do blackheads mean my pores are dirty?

No. The dark colour of a blackhead is caused by the oxidation of melanin in sebum when exposed to air, not by dirt. Washing more frequently or more aggressively does not remove blackheads and can worsen them by stripping the skin and triggering increased sebum production.

What is the best BHA concentration for clearing blackheads?

For leave-on products, 1 to 2% salicylic acid is the effective and well-tolerated range. At 0.5 to 1%, it is suitable for daily use and mild congestion. At 2%, it is most effective for established blackheads but may be drying for some skin types. Start at a lower concentration and use 3 to 4 times per week before considering daily use.

Can my moisturiser or SPF be causing my blackheads?

Possibly. Some heavier oils (coconut oil, shea butter in high concentrations, certain waxes and silicones) are comedogenic for some people, particularly on oily or congestion-prone skin. Look for products labelled non-comedogenic, though this is not a regulated claim. Water-based, gel-texture, or oil-free formulas tend to be the safest choices for congestion-prone skin.

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